Last day in CA

Tiny tuck for the last day of surfing in CA.

father's day

Father's Day at Hermosa Beach
Woody gave me greeted me as I checked the surf.

Report: 2-3 feet, poor-fair, sunny, and warm water.

Dale report: Waves were better than they looked.

lunch @ hermosa pier

sunrise surf @ hermosa

The waves were nice size, breaking really fast. For the most part they were close-outs. The winds were lightly offshore and the water was nice and smooth. Total body count was a nice 6, including myself. I couldn't believe it. There were nice waves and Christmas break but no crowds. I hope the rest of my trip goes this way. Paddling through waves I saw shells on the ocean floor. I love the ocean and am taking more of in. Style of surfing today: drop, tuck, and hold your breath. Barrels were thick and merciless. No one made it out, not even the spongers.

no hood, no booties, no gloves

Landed in LA at 3pm, in the water by 4pm, surfed till sunset with a couple pelicans, seagulls, and a few bodyboarders. The waves were nothing to shout about. But it was great to be in saltwater again. It looks like there is a little something stirring for the next two days and a bit after Christmas. But most of all, no hood, no booties, and no gloves!