Monday, December 21, 2009

sunrise surf @ hermosa

The waves were nice size, breaking really fast. For the most part they were close-outs. The winds were lightly offshore and the water was nice and smooth. Total body count was a nice 6, including myself. I couldn't believe it. There were nice waves and Christmas break but no crowds. I hope the rest of my trip goes this way. Paddling through waves I saw shells on the ocean floor. I love the ocean and am taking more of in. Style of surfing today: drop, tuck, and hold your breath. Barrels were thick and merciless. No one made it out, not even the spongers.

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